3018 pro z probe

Great service, arrived in a couple of days and does what it says on the tin. The Control Board I purchased was a perfect fit on my machine.

It's quality was far superior to the one that was supplied with the machine. It included a cooling fan and clear guards for all the components! Not able to get cnc to run properly.

About to give up and sell it. I think they are the best company to deal with. I haven't had much trouble but they are very fast at responding and so courteous. I'll keep buying from sainsmart. After an unfortunate Mishap, I had broken the power plug right off the board. I Came right to sainsmart to order a Replacement The price was awesome and the new board was better than the original due to having a case and a fan on it now.

The board was delivered very quick and without issue I had it hooked up Mounted differently as to not break it and was using it right away! Awesome stuff!

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Big improvement over my last board. This has a case and fan; a big plus in pecting the board from dust and the like. There is also a power switch I also suspect this due to improved voltage protection circuits. If you are running a Genmitsu and have the older Woodpecker 3. Worked right out of the box. Input voltage: 24V V. Support XYZ three-axis control, spindle, laser head. Support stepper motor: 12V, the maximum current within 2A, recommended within 1. Any stepper motor 42, Add to Cart.

Support spindle PWM speed control. Support XYZ triaxial control, spindle, laser head.

CNC 3018 Pro - Setup

Can be connected to high-power spindle motor or the laser head. Can only be connected within the 2A head of the laser, the voltage V can be adjustable. Customer Reviews. Customer Photos. Reviews Questions.

Title of Review. How was your overall experience? Thank you for submitting a review! Your input is very much appreciated. Share it with your friends so they can enjoy it too! Facebook Twitter. Clear filter.The Z-Probe is a detachable component that simplifies measuring material thickness when setting up a carve.

This kit includes a precision touch disc and a spindle clip to create an electrical connection when the bit touches the disc. It is fully integrated with X-Controller and Easel. No soldering is required. In order to use the Z-Probe with the version of the X-Carve you will need to upgrade to the latest version of the drag chain kit, as the cable length is too short for the number of drag chain links included in the version:.

X-Carve Drag Chain Kit. Drawing: Touch Disc. Drawing: Extension Cable. Drawing: Cable Assembly. Z-Probe A quick, accurate and automated way to zero the Z axis. This variety is out of stock. Choose a different variety or sign up to be notified when this one is available. Your email:. Product Details The Z-Probe is a detachable component that simplifies measuring material thickness when setting up a carve. In order to use the Z-Probe with the version of the X-Carve you will need to upgrade to the latest version of the drag chain kit, as the cable length is too short for the number of drag chain links included in the version: X-Carve Drag Chain Kit.

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Recommended For You.Updated 1 week ago by George. Intended for new users of CNC's in general, this guide will walk you through using it for the first time. In order to ensure that you are prepared for this process, please make sure that you have done the following:. For this first test run, you will need the test file, which is called " 1sainsmart.

If you cannot find it, you can download it from here. After you do so, it should look something like the image below:.

3018 pro z probe

What you are seeing is the Visualization Windowwhich renders a preview of the code's Tool path that you are going to run. Because CNC's are a form of subtractive manufacturing, it is best to catch any mistakes before you start, as any mistake that gets cut will be permanent and potentially ruin your stock material.

From observing the image, you can trace the entire project in one continuous line from the Origin, to the very end. This will show how to have your CNC positioned before you start, as well as how to place clamps to avoid collisions during the engraving process. Depending on the project, the location of the origin can vary, but the most common locations are the center of your project, or in this case the bottom-left corner of your workspace.

You can locate the origin by looking for where this image is seen:. The project workspace is essentially an imaginary box, which represents the maximum area that your CNC will be working with.

z probe cnc

To find this, you look to the bottom-left corner of the visualizer, where you will see the image below. This measurement, shown as Length x Width x Height, will be used to determine where to place clamps, as well what stock material the project will fit on.

It is always smart to give yourself a little extra room for error and safety, so while the workspace dimensions are With the information gathered for later, and the toolpath inspected for any potential issues, it is time to move on to the next step.

3018 pro z probe

We now know that the project workspace is In order to select a suitable piece of stock mater, you need to consider the following:. For a successful project, the answer to all of these questions needs to be "Yes," and for the case of this demonstration, a 60 mm x mm x 6. Of course, lots of shapes and sizes can be used just don't use anything too thick or too thin. Along with your CNC, you received supplies for 4 plate clamps which, when assembled, look like this:.

In the below demonstration, you can see how to use them to firmly secure your stock material to the CNC bed. Throughout your CNC bed, there are a number of strategically places slots which are T shaped, allowing the bolt head facing downwards to slide in. With the wing nut loose, you want to slide the clamp aiming for a top corner, well away from where you plan your workspace to be.

Once the metal lip makes contact with the wood, you can tighten the wing nut down to press it against the stock material.

3018 pro z probe

With pressure applied, you can tighten the additional screw or bolt in order to really lock it down, although take care to not tighten things too much. The clamp is made of steel and the bed is made of aluminium, so you might accidentally damage the bed or its T slots. While only two clamps are shown being used above, using all four clamps is always the best choice to make sure the wood is fully secure.

Make sure as you secure your stock to the bed, that it is not crooked, and is in fact square to the machine to the best of your abilities. The next step after this is actually navigating to, and zeroing out your axis with your CNC on the Origin, but before we get to that, you need to determine where you want to place it. This selection will be entirely arbitrary for the most part, with considerations to what you want the end results to be.

The only hard requirement is that you make sure it is well clear of any clamps, such as how it was selected below:.Note the feed rate and acceleration on axes. Grbl 1. You can follow any responses to this entry through RSS 2.

You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed. I would suggest soldering film capacitor directly onto the teminals.

I used c. And the power supply may be a problem too. The original one did not have enough mass estimation to reliably provide 50 W of output. Jeff, I had the same problem. To solve it, I soldered 15nF ceramic capacitors between the spindle terminals and the spindle housing. Additionally, you can also add a ceramic cap between the terminals. I would suggest a voltage rating of 50V. I still have the same problem. The most obviuos reason — misalligned rails and screw, end bearing included.

It took me a while to true the axes, as the entire construction is a bit … losy. I set up my machine with your settings.

Yes, it likely the same machine. Hello, is your cnc like this? Foreach item you want to machine, a set of operations must be defined. I had troubles with all 3 axis moving. It seems the power brick is not capable of driving all the motors and electronics, so I had random resets.

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3018 PRO CNC Router Trouble Shooting

Best of luck. Has anyone else see this? Any proposed solutions? Cancel Reply. Type your comment here. Recent Comments.Updated 2 months ago by Lynn. This is Windows saying it cannot connect to the router. Make sure that you have installed the driver and selected the correct COM port.

I was able to assemble the machine and everything was working fine, but then in the middle of the sample carvings the machine lost connection.

I have since tried it with two other computers and the offline controller which had worked fine when testing it earlier. Now no matter which usb port I try it will not connect. They both connected before as well.

Please check whether the USB port of the motherboard is loose or not. Then use the offline control module to control the machine. If the offline control module failed to control the machine, we suggest that you upgrade the firmware for the motherboard.

The offline controller and the USB cable cannot be connected at the same time. I am having an issue with the X-axis linear bearings, they are binding extremely bad causing the machine to catch and jump at certain times.

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When I test slide them with the shafts outside of the machine there is a ton of friction on them. The Y-axis bearings work perfectly for reference. Check the alignment of the guide rods and the threaded screw moving the axis, check the coupler between the stepper motor and the X-axis threaded screw is correctly aligned and slacken the screws holding the guide rods. Move the spindle mount all the way to the left by turning the threaded screw by hand and tighten the left hand screws, move the spindle mount to the right in the same way and tighten the right hand screws.

It should then move freely across the axis. When the spindle speed is too high and when you are already recording the machine stops. The spindle continues to rotate but it stops moving the axes: x, y, and z. I already tried to slow down the spindle to S and the F values. It always stops. It seems like the spindle have some issues. Can you use the slider to control the spindle speed?

We suggest that you use our sample gcode to test it again. Check that the grub screws on the coupler connecting the threaded rod to the stepper motor are tight and the coupler is not slipping. If the problem moves to the X axis, the X axis driver chip has the problem. The control board should be replaced. The PRO works fine, but I am having issues with the offline controller. The controller powers up and I am able to scroll through all of the menus, but I am unable to get it to move the cnc axis's.

The controller says it loads a file, but then nothing. I have read all the instructions and material I can find on the controller. The offline controller cannot be connected at the same time as the USB cable. Please make sure that you have unplugged the USB cable when using the offline control module and vice versa.

The laser does not function at all, after following all available instructions. Both cooling fans in the kit operate fine.Setting up the CNC Pro is a straightforward process mechanically. The steps will be similar for other CNC types with larger bed dimensions. Attached are the assembled photos with some of the assembly details. Top view Bottom view Note the brass nut and spring that is placed in the middle plate mount before attaching to the drive screw Side view Back view Z-Axis Mount Note the brass nut and spring that is placed in the head before attaching to the drive screw X-Axis Motor.

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No jumpers need to be changed X, Y and Z axis motors are connected as per the diagram. The top is for 12V laser power, the one below is PWM control For the spindle, connect it at the top-left 2-pin connector Use J-A6 port at the bottom-right for connecting a z-probe. I used 2 alligator clips - one connected to the PCB to be carved and one connected to the motor spindle.

You can use two alligator clips attached to J-A6 port or a z-probe device. Top view. Bottom view Note the brass nut and spring that is placed in the middle plate mount before attaching to the drive screw.

Z-Axis Mount Note the brass nut and spring that is placed in the head before attaching to the drive screw. From the grblControl software you can set them by sending these 3 commands in order, X, Y, Z :.

You can do so by measuring the distance the motor moves in millimeters and adjust the value until it is correct. If it doesn't move exactly mm, adjust the value up or down until it does.Using a cheap dollar-store set of headphones, a couple of alligator clips and a headphone jack, you can add a Z-Probe to your CNC router.

When a probe command is issued the router starts moving down in the Z directionthe pins monitor and when they detect a complete circuit stop the motion. Snip off the earbud and throw those away. Carefully strip the insulation back from each wire to reveal two thin wires and some fibers.

The wires will normally be colored copper with one side having a blue wire and the other a red one. These wires are thin and delicate and covered with a shellac finish to insulate them.

With an Exacto knife on a piece of scrap wood, carefully scrape as much of the colored insulation from each of the wires. You can ignore the copper colored wire. It is not needed and can be cut off. As you scrape, you should begin to see the shiny copper color come through.

You don't have to be perfect. Some insulation is fine and will melt away when you solder the wires. Add a small piece of shrink tubing to the wires before attaching them to the clips, or splicing them to the alligator leads. This will provide some extra strain relief. Place it right up the end where the insulation was stripped and shrink the tubing. If you are using the alligator clips by themselves, remove the rubber insulator from the clip and slip it over the wire.

I find it easier to remove and reposition the rubber insulators by first snapping the alligator clips to a screwdriver. This reduces the width and makes removing the cover easier. Place the wire in the alligator clip and insert the bare wire into the hole. Cut one lead in half.

You can use both parts for each side. It does't matter if they'e the same color, there's no polarity. Strip the lead wire. Place a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the lead wire. Twist the stranded wire and shape into a U-shape.

Using Z Axis Touch Probe with the SourceRabbit GRBL Controller